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Rules
Since this page was first put together there have been
several tables built and many questions about the rules. So I am inserting here
the joint input from several ol' salts about the rules of the game:
Here are excerpts from a series of emails re: Knuckleball
rules:
Boyd Morris:
I am not an expert on Knuckleball. I spent all my time on the water. I do,
however, remember that to start you dropped your balls (2 as I recall) across
the center board onto to your opponents side and he did the same. Then it was,
do all you could to get all of the balls to fall off the table on your opponents
side.
Win Walker:
As a former "World Knuckleball Champion" (along with probably 1,000 or more
co-champs!), I do feel qualified to expound on the rules a bit. Boyd's basic
premise is exactly right, two balls thrown to the opponents side and then the
first to lose a ball over the edge loses. One variation was to call a "dirty"
game, where any manipulation of balls was permitted, most notably hitting down
on a ball so hard that it hopped sideways over the center barrier into your
opponent's trough, leaving very little time for him to recover it before gravity
took over. You could also hoard balls on your side, often having all four at one
time to send smashing back to your opponent in rapid fire succession, slamming
them off the end board so hard that they barely landed before going over the
end.
Roger Ljung:
I am one of the "1000 co-champs. Everything so far is exactly as I remember.
Additionally, not only was there "chops" over the center barrier, but "rolls".
You simply rolled a ball over the barrier to your opponents side. I have played
with as many as 10 balls. Championships were always four. As well as losing by
letting a ball go by, you would lose if you knocked one off the table.
Hope this helps.
Building
Table
After many requests (not surprising considering the popularity of the game) and some
help from Jim Cofer on dimensions, here's everything you should need to build your own
Knucleball Table.
NOTE:
 | The mallets were Duck Pins - a form of bowling
with smaller equipment. |
| I believe the balls were
either Croquet Balls or Skee-balls. |
| I have received several notes about improvements
made over the years after I was at Camp
 | Metal plates (maybe tin, like for A/C duct
work) on the player end of the table to cut down on the wear |
| 45° Wooden blocks in the upper corners |
| Rubber tube or rail around the inside of the
outer walls |
|
Here is how it should look when you're finished - except for color.
Please go through all of the instructions before you start so you can make
sure you have the tools & materials you need and to make sure you're comfortable that
you can build the table (if you think you can't handle it,
I would suggest contacting a local building contractor who
specializes in decking construction/repair).
| Base Construction - PRECISE CUTS MAKE THE BEST
PRODUCT
| We'll start with the base. I recommend using pressure treated stock. |
| Legs - 2 Pressure treated 8' 6x6s. 4x4s could be used but wouldn't give the weight and
stability. |
| Bracing - 8 Pressure treated 10' 2x4s |
|
A
(click on drawing to enlarge & print if desired) |
B
(click on drawing to enlarge & print if desired) |
Refer to the drawings to the left and
the photo above First let's build the two ends of the table
base:
- Cut each 6x6 into 2 pieces - 1 3' long and 1 4' long
- Cut 2 2x4s to get 1 5' piece from each
- Fasten one of the 5' 2x4s to the two 3' 6x6s 1' from one end (this will be the bottom
end)
- Fasten the other 5' 2x4 to the two 4' 6x6s 1' from one end (this will be the bottom end)
- Cut the remains of the 2 2x4s to get 1 3' piece from each
- Fasten one of the 3' 2x4s to the two 3' 6x6s (even with the top end). This is the front
end of the table.
- Fasten the other 3' 2x4 to the two 4' 6x6s (even with the top end). This is the back
end of the table.
NOTE: Notice in the photo and in the drawings that the ends of the 5' braces should be
even with the outside edge of the legs and the 3' braces are butted to the inside edge of
the legs
Next we'll put the two ends together:
- Cut 2 2x4s to get 1 9' piece from each
- Stand the front & back end pieces just completed so that the 5' braces
are at the bottom.
- Fasten the two 9' 2x4s between the front and back end pieces (1' from the
bottom & on the outside of the legs)
- Carefully cut & attach 1 10' 2x4 as follows (Refer
to Drawing A):
- With the base as assembled so far standing on the floor, clamp 1 10' 2x4 to the outside
of the front and back legs on the left side at the top.
- Carefully adjust so that the distance between these legs is 5' and the
top edge of the 2x4 is even with the top of the front corner of both legs. This
is so you can mark this brace properly for the angled cut to be made on each end.
- Now draw a line on the inside of the 2x4 down the corner formed by the inside of the 2x4
and the inside of each leg. Remove clamps.
- Cut the 2x4 along each of these lines. You should now have a brace that fits between the
front & back legs on the inside and with the correct angle.
- Attach this brace flush with the outside edge of the legs, toe-nailing from the bottom
and inside.
- Repeat step 11 for the other side.
Now we'll finish off the base by adding the 2 internal top braces.
- Cut 1 10' 2x4 into two pieces that fit between the top outside braces as shown in
drawing B.
NOTE: The 4'-8" measurement shown is incorrect. The dimension will
be slightly more because the 2x4s are really more like 1-3/4x3-1/2. So use a process
similar to step 11 to make sure these braces maintain the 5' distance between the outside
edges of the table.
If you've done all of this carefully you now have a good solid base on which to build
the rest of the table & the worst is over. |
Floor Construction - PRECISE CUTS MAKE THE
BEST PRODUCT
| Now for the floor of the game area. I recommend using maple for the floor because of
it's toughness and durability. You could use exterior plywood but it would have to be
replaced fairly regularly. |
| I understand that maple flooring was the original material used for the floor. I would
assume that this would be something in the range of 1/2" to 3/4" thick 6"
to 10" wide tongue and groove boards. If this is what you choose to use (and can find
them) get enough to be able to put together one surface of around 5'-6"x9'-6" |
| The alternative would be 1 piece of maple dressed to 5'x9'-6"x1". Regardless
of your choice be prepared to PAY - hardwoods are 'spensive. |
C
(click on drawing to enlarge & print if desired) |
D
(click on drawing to enlarge & print if desired) |
Refer to the drawings to the left and
the photo above These instructions will assume you use one
solid piece (either by assembling a piece of the necessary size from maple flooring or
using my alternative suggestion:
- Using a high quality exterior wood glue (I have had good success with Titebond II
Premium Wood Glue) run a good solid bead of glue along the top edge of all six top braces
on the base unit.
- Place the floor on top of the base.
- Align the floor with the right and left sides leaving a slight
overhand at the front and back and clamp in place all around. This probably will take 16
clamps - five on each side and three at each end. I prefer the new Quick Grip clamps from
ViseGrip but C-clamps will do fine. Just make sure they have a 6" or better reach.
- Let stand for at least 24 hours then remove clamps.
- Mark a line from side to side on the top of the floor at both the
front and back so you can trim the ends to be flush with the bracing underneath.
- Use a circular saw with the foot adjusted to the appropriate angle
to trim the floor at both the front and back straight up & down and even with
the underlying brace.
Done with the floor. |
Wall Construction - PRECISE CUTS MAKE THE BEST
PRODUCT
| Finally for the walls of the game area. Again I recommend using maple.
| Side walls - 2 pieces of maple dressed to 2'x10'x1". |
| Back well - 1 piece of maple dressed to 2'x5'x1" |
| Center wall - 1 piece of maple dressed to 6"x7'x1" |
|
E
(click on drawing to enlarge & print if desired)
|
F
(click on drawing to enlarge & print if desired)
|
Refer to the drawings to the left and
the photo above We'll start with the center wall so that we
can easily clamp it:
- Mark a line on the floor from the front toward the back for 7' in
the exact center of the floor
- Run a bead of glue along the line.
- Place the center wall board in place centered over that line and
even with the front of the floor
- Clamp in place using 5+' stock in three places side to side on top
of the center wall with the clamps at the ends and under the top side braces.
- Allow a minimum of 24 hours before continuing then remove clamps.
Now we'll attach the back wall:
- Clamp the back wall in place so that it extends 1'-6" above the floor.
- Mark a line along the back wall where the floor and back wall form a corner.
- Remove the clamps and run two beads of glue, one just under the line you drew and one
another 3" below that (the object being to glue the back wall both to the edge of the
floor and the upper brace).
- Attach the back wall by clamping into place (minimum 3 clamps).
- Allow a minimum of 24 hours before continuing then remove clamps.
And finally we'll cut and attach the side walls:
- Clamp the right side wall in place so that it extends 1'-6"
above the floor using a couple of 6' bar clamps - one at the front and one at the back
(if you don't already have clamps or can't borrow them, a lot of tool rental stores
have them). Make sure the bottom corner of the front edge is flush with the front of the
leg. The back edge of the side wall should now extend past the back wall. (NOTE: Ignore
the 1'-4 5/16" & 1'-10 13/16" measurements in the drawing)
- Mark the back end of the side wall for a vertical cut flush with
the back wall.
- Mark the side wall for the angular cut 6'-9 7/8" from the
back down to the floor level.
- Mark the front end of the side wall for a vertical cut flush with
the front of the table.
- Mark the side wall from back to front at the level of the floor
to identify where the glue bead will be run.
- Remove clamps and make the three cuts.
- Run a bead of glue just below the line marked in step 14.
- Run a bead of glue about 3" below the one just run.
- Run about a 6" bead of glue down the side of the front leg
starting at the floor.
- Run a bead of glue down the edge of the back wall.
- Clamp the side wall in place using 6' bar clamps - 2 along the
front edge and 3 along the back. Clamp the bottom edge to the side brace using 5
cabinetmaker's bench clamps with a minimum 10" reach.
- Allow a minimum of 24 hours before continuing then remove clamps.
- Repeat this procedure for the left side wall
Finishing the table:
As I recall the originals were not lacquered or painted so the only finishing step I
would recommend is to use a router to take the sharp edges off of the walls. |
Finally, get the duck pins, croquet balls or skee-bals
and a large box of band-aids and have at it.
Good Luck & Enjoy
Boyd Morris
|
Virpetual*
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